‘Wardrobe Theory Project’ Wants You to Rethink Your Closet

Sustainability has been a buzzword for years, especially in the fashion industry. As a consumer in a world where donating, thrifting, and secondhand shopping lead the way in ethical fashion, Colin Behr is digging deeper—into his own closet—to reduce his carbon footprint. Not the easiest thing to do for a Nike alum who spent the past 10 years as a product and footwear designer, surrounded by new threads. In 2019, Behr began working on a coffee table book, documenting every item in his closet. He ultimately ditched the book concept, instead opting for a biannual, subscription-based magazine called Wardrobe Theory Project. In it, he intertwines fashion and analytics, while cataloguing the contents of his (and others’) closets. The goal: to get people to more seriously contemplate how—and why—we choose to wear what we wear.

Wardrobe Theory Project will launch its first issue with a pop-up at Chess Club, Saturday, February 8,  from 3–6pm. We spoke with Behr about what people can expect in the first issue, the role of systems thinking in fashion, and the most common misconceptions people have about sustainability.

What led you to merge fashion and analytics in your magazine? When we see high fashion and style magazines, it’s always glamour and stylized shots and photo shoots and all these things which are awesome and inspiring, but I’m equally inspired by the why behind everything. I’ve always approached apparel and fashion with a design thinking mindset—a process of steps and analysis that allow me to understand the need in both the marketplace and for the consumer. What I’ve learned: The best things happen when you take two things that haven’t been connected before. We’ve implemented things like color metrics and a serialization system for each garment—even versatility graphs. For example, working with an engineer with my given parameters [and] the 50 items that I have in this issue, we can create 166,600 outfits that are completely unique—456 years of unique daily fits.

What’s one common misconception about sustainable fashion that more people should understand? The biggest misconception is that the most sustainable thing you can buy is a new item made with less energy or recycled content, which is completely wrong. If you buy a recycled polyester shirt, it’s going to eventually end up in the landfill and it’s never going to biodegrade. The most sustainable thing you can wear is what you already own.

Tell us about the process of cataloging your wardrobe. I wanted to design my own clothing again, like I did in college. But while sketching, I wondered what I could learn by documenting my closet instead. So I started taking quick iPhone photos—just a white wall and a nail hanger—then organized them in a digital file, adding notes on each item’s origin, purpose, and how I liked to wear it. When I started documenting my clothes more seriously with better photography, a friend helped me shoot. The process was tedious and repetitive but also rewarding. Spending time with my clothes, I noticed wrinkles, marks, and stains I hadn’t seen before, reflecting on the memories of when I wore them and the life I had lived in them. 

What other themes or insights does the magazine explore? Ownership identity. Why you wear what you wear. The inherent action of what you choose to put on signals your values, what you care about, and that helps break down barriers for your friends, your communities, your subcultures, your subgroups. We tap into that through an essay in each issue. Wardrobe Theory Project will also highlight either a tailor or a cobbler in our Lost Art segment. We’re really trying to focus on artisanship and the crafts of the older generations that aren’t really getting passed down. Part of that is celebrating them and the awesome work and craftsmanship that they do—but also pointing out a crucial profession that can help us keep our garments in use.

As an Iowa native, how has living in Portland influenced your style? I’ve always been kind of utilitarian. In Iowa, one of my grandfathers worked on a manufacturing plant for an aluminum company. My other worked on the production line for John Deere and a farm. I was influenced by tried-and-true functional garments, as well as sports (basketball). When I moved to Portland, I wanted to be fresh and wear my Jordans and Nikes, but I was very aware of the climate. One of the first things I bought was a waterproof jacket. Biking to work, walking around campus, and being in small meeting rooms led to me developing a layering system, since I run warm. 

What has the Wardrobe Theory Project revealed about how people connect with their clothing? Everyone has a deep connection with something in their closet, whether they are into fashion or not. 

Three words to describe Portland’s style: Personal. Protective. Vintage.

Three words to describe your style: Comfortable. Functional. Layered.