The Best Oregon Strawberry Varieties for U-Pick
For most of history, patches of green, satin leaves in Oregon’s soggy forests have concealed pay dirt: squat wild strawberries, mini by supermarket standards, sun-sweetened or rain-subtled. Oregon is a dream growing region for strawberries, for reasons familiar to pinot noir aficionados. Our rich soil traps spring showers to keep plants hydrated, and cool summer evenings allow fruit to ripen slowly for deeper, more nuanced flavor. “These are super-sweet, red-all-the-way-through, dense-flavor-palate berries that are unlike any others in the country,” says Jayson Hoffman of Hoffman Farms, a Beaverton family operation that grows six varieties of strawberries. “It’s the cold nights. We can grow high-quality, June-bearing strawberries with super-high sugars.”
Every June, Oregonians trudge through Willamette Valley strawberry fields toting buckets, hoping to pack their freezers with gallon bags of vermilion to stretch the painfully brief season. While many flock to the ultrapopular Hoods, understanding the qualities of the state’s varieties will help you strategize as you pick. In other words, maximize the strawberry splendor by choosing the right strawb for specific treats (jam, ice cream, shortcake) or uses (immediate snacking, midweek breakfasts, postseason pastries). Here’s a guide to four of Oregon’s more commonly spotted cultivars.
Hood
If you know one Oregon strawberry variety, it’s probably the not-so-humble Hood—shockingly sweet, crimson inside and out, and extremely delicate. (Hoffman even jokes that after picking, one pint will last as long as it takes to walk to your car.) Despite their fragility, Hoods’ mind-boggling flavor makes them a favorite among Portland chefs. Every year, you’ll find them transformed into a cocktail syrup at the Pearl District’s Bar Comala or macerated in a salad at Higgins. With a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it season, people line up at farmers market stands before they open when Hoods start showing up, like they’re waiting for a sneaker drop or Beyoncé tickets. “People are nostalgically connected to them,” Hoffman says. “It’s what a certain portion of the population remembers picking as a youth.”
Pick your own: Bella Organic Farm, Columbia Farms, the Pumpkin Patch (all Sauvie Island); Hoffman Farms (Beaverton); Dave Heikes Farms (Farmington); Smith Berry Barn (Hillsboro); Koch Family Farm (Saint Paul)
How to use: Look at a Hood funny and it’ll rot right before your eyes, so time is of the essence. The second you get home from the farm, turn your haul into something that capitalizes on Hoods’ flavor without relying too heavily on their texture, like a syrup or a sorbet. At Cafe Olli, pastry chef and co-owner Siobhan Speirits transforms Pablo Munoz Farms’ Hoods into strawberry preserves, which she dollops over ricotta toast.
Tillamook
Many commercial farms grow fields full of the sturdy, substantial Tillamook because they’re a straightforward win. These large berries grow on long stems that sit in front of the leaves, which makes them easier to spot. For that reason, Tillamooks serve as a smart starter berry for younger pickers who may get frustrated digging around in the mud for a Hood. Plus, what you see is what you get—Hoffman says that, unlike other varieties which may turn red but still need a few days to reach peak ripeness, a Tillamook can hit a shortcake the second it turns scarlet.
Pick your own: Hoffman Farms, Van Laeken Farms (Ridgefield, Washington), Bella Organic Farm
How to use: Oregon State University berry researcher and horticulturist Amanda Davis says their size, firmness, and classic shape make Tillamooks a nice fit for chocolate-dipped berries. They also freeze beautifully for a seasonally sacrilegious mid-December strawberry pie.
Shuksans
When Shuksans debuted in the 1970s, the Washington State University researchers who developed them promised a hardier plant that could withstand the Pacific Northwest’s cold, wet winters. These flavor bombs, known for their exuberant color and profound sugar content, became a popular berry in farm kitchens for jams and preserves. But as plant breeders continued to hone berries for firmness and disease resistance, the Shuksan fell to the middle of the pack in terms of agricultural popularity. While many U-pick farmers have pulled out their Shuksan plants in favor of newer, high-yielding varieties like Sweet Sunrise, they remain a cult favorite. Jon Rowley, the late seafood evangelist who popularized Copper River salmon and Taylor Shellfish oysters, was partial to Shuksans; in a piece for Edible Seattle, he wrote that they “had character” and “outstanding flavor.”
Pick your own: Koch Family Farm, Dave Heikes Farms, Smith Berry Barn
How to use: Plenty of people love to eat Shuksans straight from the pint (or, when in the field, from a bucket), but they also keep very well frozen or in a preserve. Gracie’s Apizza owner Craig Melillo uses Shuksans for a berry and buttermilk ice cream he serves at his St. Johns pizzeria. “They don’t hold well, but they’re juicy and jammy,” he says. “I puree them and slightly dehydrate them to keep the acidity but remove moisture.”
Marys Peak
Your favorite farmer’s favorite strawberry, the ruby-colored Marys Peak didn’t hit the market until 2018, growing its first baby buds in Corvallis as a part of a USDA breeding program. Marys Peak strawberries, which can be round- or square-shaped, still have the classic red-to-the-center coloring and lingering sweetness of a Hood, but their lemonade acidity makes them a better fit for people who prefer a tarter berry. Plus, they hold up better after picking, which means they’ll last longer in the fridge for smoothies and granola bowls.
Pick your own: Columbia Farms, Hoffman Farms, Koch Family Farm, the Pumpkin Patch
How to use: While they eat incredibly well fresh thanks to their firm texture, Manzanita food blogger Angie Hatfield also used Marys Peaks in her strawberry Dutch baby recipe—the butter-roasted berries are juicy enough to turn the batter pink. “I’m really particular: I want them red all the way through,” she says. “They last longer than Hoods, so they’re good to bake with.”
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