Matsunoki Ramen: Buzzy Artisan Bowls of Tonkotsu Hit Mississippi Avenue

Following years of success and tens of thousands of steaming ramen bowls sold, Pine Street Market staple Matsunoki Ramen has expanded into its first standalone space. The new Mississippi Avenue location brings an inviting jungle-green-against-rattan vibe, a full bar (and an an all-new cocktail menu), and an ambition to further cement Matsunoki’s identity in Portland’s bustling ramen scene.

The new shop, nestled at the corner of Mississippi and Fremont in the former XO Bar space, represents more than growth— it’s a kind of homecoming. Co-owner Jeff Extine cut his teeth just down the street at Por Que No, the ever-popular taco spot with lines often stretching down the block. Extine says the return to Mississippi feels that much more personal to him. During a recent visit, passersby frequently slowed to a stop or altered their course entirely to take a peek in the windows and scan the posted menus, a steady trickle of curiosity surrounding N Mississippi’s newest inhabitants.

Ron Scott

Ron Scott

The owners — Extine, Grant Macdonald, and Joey Freedman — bring a collective depth of experience, having worked with Portland standouts like Japanese-based ramen chain Afuri, Bollywood Theater, and Marukin (now Kinboshi). Macdonald, as COO, brings clear focus and industry to Matsunoki, having spent years overseeing Afuri’s considerable growth in the Portland Metro.

Macdonald essentially defines Matusnoki’s ethos thusly: “We make delicious ramen, and we make it with an understanding of Japanese sensibility, but with a target audience of Americans. The way I think of it… in Japan, it’s like, noodles first, broth second, toppings are an afterthought. Here, it’s the exact opposite order. People are looking for toppings.” Extine chimes in with strong topping-related thoughts of his own, mocking the imagined thought process of other ramen joints, “What goes in ramen? Oh, seaweed, oh fishcake, oh, and then all of a sudden you just have this bowl and it’s the same as everyone else’s, and it’s just too crowded!”

Ron Scott

What was once XO Bar has now been transformed into a ramen bar that evokes a very contemporary vibe, with forest green walls that nod to Matsunoki’s namesake pine tree. Blonde wood tables and palm-colored chairs line the room in clean symmetry, framed by tall front windows that pull in Mississippi Ave foot traffic. Pendant lights descend to just above the bar top, their bulbs wrapped in woven green orbs not unlike the rattan and wicker-style fixtures that softly illuminate the dining room.

The new Mississippi space also sees the launch of a cocktail menu, currently including Spring-forward drinks like the Cherry Blossom, made with salal berries and Freeland Spirits liqueur, and the Long Thaw, a floral riff on the white negroni.

While tonkotsu-style ramen is the obvious bread-and-butter for Matsunoki (its version also incorporates chicken broth), a full quarter of sales across the board are vegan options, a figure the team wears as a badge of honor. The team considers fully vegan options throughout their menu to be a core concept at Matsunoki instead of an afterthought.

The Pine Stree Market location will continue operating downtown. But on Mississippi Avenue, Matsunoki is betting on more space and visibility, along with a steady stream of foot traffic to write its second chapter. Doors open Thursday, April 24, with free ramen for the first 50 people through the door.

Ron Scott