A Perfect Wine-Tasting Weekend in Eugene, Oregon

McMinnville and Carlton might be the Willamette Valley wine country mainstays, but don’t sleep on their sibling to the south. Smack-dab between the bold and bright warm-weather varietals of the Umpqua Valley and the pretty pinots of Eola–Amity Hills, the Southern Willamette Valley’s got range. Combine that with an up-and-coming food scene that could spar with Portland’s, incomparable access to the outdoors, and a refreshingly chill pace, and Eugene makes for a relaxed, multifaceted summer getaway highlighting all of Oregon’s best attributes.

Friday, 5pm: Check in at the Inn at the Fifth, attached to Eugene’s famous 5th Street Public Market. Free wine and soda at the front desk, rooms decorated to celebrate Oregon’s outdoors, and a supremely comfortable mattress make it a worthy splurge. Try to snag a room with a balcony overlooking the plaza—you can drink your morning coffee with a view of the market below.

7pm: After you settle in, take a 15-minute walk to the colorful Yardy Rum Bar, where co-owner and chef Isaiah Martinez covers Caribbean culinary staples with Lane County produce—think killer skillet-fried chicken, Creole pork shoulder, and salads showing off the best of the season. Start with a pile of doubles, Trinidadian turmeric fry breads smothered in curried chickpeas, and finish with a rum old-fashioned as a nightcap.

Saturday, 8:30am: Eugene punches above its weight in the baked goods category, and right now Noisette Pastry Kitchen is the go-to morning stop. Its flaky multilayered croissants sell out quickly, so don’t dawdle.

10:30am: A visit to the Eugene Saturday Market is nonnegotiable. Founded in 1970, this open-air seasonal market has its feet firmly planted in the free love past. Hippies selling ceramics, tie-dye, and witchy moon art sprawl across two city blocks. Get the vibes right with a bowl of teriyaki tofu from Nice Rice, then duck across the street to ogle organic local berries and produce at the simultaneous Lane County Farmers Market.

12:30pm: Hop in the car and head south for scenic wine tasting just outside city limits. At King Estate Winery, a mansion with massive arched ceilings guards stacked wine barrels, and the view from the outdoor tasting area cannot be beat. During the summer, the vineyard’s lavender pops off, so savor a pinot gris in the shade while listening to the bees do their thing. Or, for panoramic views and relief from pinot fatigue, hit up Sweet Cheeks Winery, a less ostentatious option pouring bolder reds (tempranillo, Syrah) surrounded by rolling hills.

4pm: Send the car back to the valet and get lost inside the 5th Street Public Market. Covet the bags and wallets at the parking lot boxcar that houses Will Leather Goods, and then wander over to the overwhelmingly abundant Marché Provisions market for tinned fish, a French pan brush, and a slice of quiche you didn’t know you wanted.

6:30pm: After a much-needed breather, cross Fifth Street for more flights at J. Scott Cellars, an urban winery from the former head winemaker at the lauded Silvan Ridge, just outside of town. Focusing on a few less-seen French styles along with the classics, J. Scott is just as likely to pour light and lush gamays as it is unapologetically oaky chardonnay.

8pm: You won’t have to go far for dinner: A literal stone’s throw from the hotel, Marché also happens to be the granddaddy farm-to-table restaurant in town. Dishes like pan-fried trout with Dungeness crab butter and lentils, or an
egg pizzetta with shaved black truffle, show this elder is still very much part of Eugene’s food conversation.

Sunday, 9am: Lace up your hiking boots and check out. Next stop: South Eugene’s Lox Stocks and Bagels, home to what may be the best bagels in the state. Located in a strip mall anchored by a Safeway, this low-key shop has mastered bagels sporting a snappy exterior that gives way to a soft and chewy center. Get a half dozen for the road, plus a breakfast bagel topped with lox, chicken liver pâté, or whitefish salad, all cured or made in-house.

10am: Finish the weekend strong (literally) with a jaunt up Spencer Butte. It’s a short, calf-burning hike, but you’re rewarded with a stream of hellos from fellow hikers, plus a stunning 360 view of the Three Sisters and Mount Jefferson. Unless you’re into climbing boulders, take the easy way up and back—your hammies will thank you later.