Hat Yai’s Alan Akwai Talks Takeout Chicken and Martinis in Portland

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In 2016, Alan Akwai was working as a beverage consultant at Akaapong “Earl” Ninsom’s original iteration of the James Beard Award-winning Langbaan, assisting Ninsom with service and beverage pairings “before the whole thing blew up,” says Akwai. After a fried chicken dish made an appearance on the menu, the two started discussing the potential for a fast-casual restaurant, inspired by local successes like ¿Por Qué No? and Bollywood Theater. One day, when headed to Expatriate to grab a drink after scouting potential locations, the two spotted a “For Lease” sign at NE Killingsworth and 16th Avenue.

“The landlord happened to be on the premises, he showed us the space,” says Akwai. “It was new, this whole building. We were wondering if it was too narrow to fit a restaurant. It’s pretty tight.” Despite the doubts, the room felt right, and the two co-founded and co-opened the first location of Hat Yai. Ninsom handled the creative and culinary side, while Akwai tended to front-of-house management and operations. The restaurant was an instant hit, and has now firmly established itself as a first-thought destination and regular spot for Portlanders. “In this neighborhood, we hit all those marks right, where it can be a weekly thing for families, tourists, visitors, carry-out on a school night or when you’re sick,” says Akwai.

Hat Yai

In 2024, they saw record-breaking weekends in the restaurant’s eighth year on NE Killingsworth and fifth year on SE Belmont, thanks in no small part to the iconography of their signature dish, the “Hat Yai for 2,” a half-fried chicken set served with sticky rice, rich curry broth, roti, and spicy pickles, recognized by Eater as one of Portland’s best dishes. It’s something that’ll never be messed with, says Akwai: “We haven’t changed a whole bunch, we’re just doing our thing right.”

We caught up with Akwai at Hat Yai to discuss his favorite takeout chicken (besides his own), his go-to martini order, and the classic Portland restaurant he’s been dining at since childhood.

This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.

Do you eat here at Hat Yai?

Once in a while. Usually I’ll get DoorDash.

Really?

Yeah, I want to see how the app and delivery are working. Then I’m also not disrupting the normal flow of service or taking a seat. It’s comfortable to eat at home, too.

Outside of that, are you a takeout type of person?

My girlfriend and I like to get carry-out and eat at home, watch TLC and trash television.

What’s your go-to carry-out spot with your girlfriend?

Big’s Chicken, that’s a good weekly staple. We get some grilled chicken and salad and some jojos. It’s easy for us.

Do you guys have regular date night spots, or do you like to switch it up?

It’s more on the regular side of things. We end up going to the same spots a lot.

And they are?

RingSide. At the bar.

RingSide

What are you drinking?

Nebbiolo and Tanqueray martinis.

Twist? Dirty?

Just olives.

Simple.

Super classic. The burgers [which aren’t listed on the dine-in menu], we really enjoy those. That’s the place I go to for a restaurant burger these days. I’ll switch it up between the big steaks and a burger.

Sides?

No.

Really? Not even the onion rings?

These days, I save my appetite for the protein. The wine is kind of my M.O. when I go.

Ox is another one — there’s a steak theme here. If I go and sit at the bar by myself, I’ll get the skirt steak, some red wine, talk to the bartender, and hang out. That’s kind of my favorite.

I was born and raised in Portland, so the Jake’s locations still have this special place in my heart. I went to dinner for my senior prom there, my siblings’ birthdays, graduations. One of my best friends is the sous chef at Jake’s Grill. For weekday lunch in Portland, we go there and get the Cobb salad, which is so classic. They put a bunch of avocado on there, it’s really generous. We have John Dalys, Arnold Palmers with vodka. That’s the day off date. Comfort and consistency.

If you’re gonna mess around with anything snacky or junky or sweet, what’s your game plan?

I’m not a sweets guy. If I’m gonna get a drive-thru cheeseburger, I’ll go to Mike’s Drive-In on Lombard.

My junk food indulgence would be pizza. Pizza Thief for more artisan pizza. I like No Saint, they’re good neighbors. If we’re gonna eat at home, there’s gonna be a lot of Blind Onion or Domino’s.

What’s your regular order?

It’s pretty simple. For Domino’s Pizza, I like supreme, more or less. Pepperoni, sausage, bell peppers, olives, mushrooms. I only fuck with the wings and stuff if I’m with a friend.

Do you get ranch?

I will get the side of ranch. Oh, yeah.

You mentioned Expatriate earlier. Do you have any other bars you love?

I love a cocktail bar. Teardrop, Bluehour back in the day. I’m a dive bar person now. My spots are Mousetrap on Lombard and Joe’s Cellar. Those are the places where you know a familiar face behind the bar and you can go hang out and talk with a buddy, or sit in the corner by yourself and be on your phone, or shoot pool, or be rowdy after Timbers games. You can people-watch. Everyone can intermingle.

Do you cook at home?

Yes. I love to cook. I’m a barbecue guy. The American man thing to do in the backyard.