Portland’s Best Spots for Smoky Southern Barbecue
The Pitmaster Nap from Bark City BBQ is not for amateurs.
Summer is here, and that means one thing: ’tis the season of smoked and grilled meats. And while most of us can throw a hot dog or hamburger on the grill, not all of us have hours to dedicate to slow-smoking a brisket. Luckily, plenty of Portlanders dedicate their lives to the craft of barbecue—recall that Texas Monthly branded us the finest Texas-style barbecue outside of the Lone Star State back in 2019—and we set out to find the best of them (honorable mention goes to Hood River’s Grasslands). Whether you’re looking for Texas-style brisket, Kansas City burnt ends, or succulent Carolina pulled pork, Portland has it covered.
Bark City BBQ
woodstock
Owner Michael Keskin, a Podnah’s Pit alum, utilizes a giant smoker right behind the cart, where Oregon oak imparts its flavor to fall-off-the-bone ribs, brisket, turkey, and Texas hot links. But Keskin isn’t relying solely on hardwood to make his barbecue shine. Ribs get rubbed in a flavorful blend of butter, cider, and pickle juice. The moist turkey, dipped in butter and drizzled with creamy Alabama white sauce, is unexpectedly peppery and delightful. But it’s the house-made hot links that stand out most, boasting plentiful chile, the perfect amount of juicy fat, and delicate smoky flavor. Get the Pitmaster Nap to sample the cart’s five meats, plus your choice of two sides—may we suggest the jalapeño mac ’n’ cheese topped with crispy potato chips, and whatever seasonal salad is available? But be sure to save room for the banana pudding—according to former PoMo food editor Benjamin Tepler, it merits a visit on its own.
Botto’s always delivers on sides, sausages, brisket, and ribs.
Botto’s Craft BBQ
brooklyn
Owner Darren Bottinelli—who got into barbecue while living in Austin—moved his former cart into the old Pok Pok Wing space in late 2020 and has been serving his Texas-style brisket and ribs to crowds since. The fatty brisket with its generously peppered crust is the move here, melting in your mouth unlike any other on this list. Botto’s also impresses with its range of three creative sauces: sweet-sour tamarind barbecue, the savory and chunky Texas style reminiscent of a spicy gazpacho, and the tangy spicy white sauce, complete with recs on which sauces to use with which types of meat. The gooey mac ’n’ cheese has a nice kick thanks to chunks of green chile, and the collard greens retain a welcome touch of crunch, though they can be a tad oily. What unexpectedly elevates this barbecue are the house pickles, which add tangy punctuation between bites of meat.
Brisket, burnt ends, and saucy pork ribs take center stage at Lawless BBQ.
Lawless BBQ
hosford-abernethy
Kansas City transplant Kevin Koch originally opened Lawless Barbecue as the kitchen for Little Beast Brewery before moving into his own location on SE Seventh Avenue. The brisket, while well-seasoned and flavorful, can occasionally be on the drier side, though the burnt ends always sport an impressive crust. But you’re not here for Texas smoked meats—this is Kansas City country. While other barbecue regions might look down on overly sauced meats, it’s an essential part of this style. As such, we were wowed by the pork ribs, heartbreakingly tender and brushed with Koch’s dialed-in KC sweet barbecue sauce. The pulled pork hews farther south in approach, adorned with gold Carolina mustard sauce. Koch also delivers on the sides, having spent considerable time developing each. The barbecue beans have the right texture, neither too soft nor too firm, and the mac ’n’ cheese is silky smooth without being overcooked. Like at Bark City, meals should end with the exceptional banana pudding, topped with brûléed bananas, Nilla wafers, and candied pecans.
Brisket and migas breakfast tacos at the iconic Matt’s BBQ Tacos.
Matt’s BBQ & Matt’s BBQ Tacos
various locations
Matt’s BBQ has been the city’s mainstay for Texas-style barbecue ever since Matt Vicedomini opened the cart in 2015. Since then, it’s expanded its reach all over the city, from its cart at Prost to its appearance in Eem’s famous white brisket curry and brisket fried rice, to its taco carts at Mt. Tabor’s Hinterlands food cart pod and Great Notion’s Alberta Street brewpub. Vicedomini became famous for his ultra-tender brisket, but on our last visit, we loved the delightful jalapeño cheddar sausage, whose exterior snaps and interior oozes with melted cheese, as well as the inventive sauces, particularly the peach mustard and cherry chipotle. But we’re even bigger fans of the Tex-Mex take at Vicedomini’s taco carts—the smoked meats meld so well with the cart’s housemade, chewy, flavorful flour tortillas, and who can say no to smoked pork belly with pickled onions and guacamole, or all-day chopped brisket breakfast tacos with cheesy eggs and potatoes?
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